Brisbane is home to a thriving cultural scene, with more arts, comedy and music events than you could shake a stuffed crocodile at. Then there’s the markets, the beaches, the koalas… and the melon skiing.
Ross McGregor selects his top 10 things to do in Brisbane, and takes a moment to wonder why he doesn’t live there.
1. See Brisbane from the water
The best introduction to the city is aboard a vessel cruising along its major artery, the slowly snaking Brisbane River. Opt for a hop-on hop-off tourist cruise from one of the many operators or travel with more autonomy using the water buses known as CityCats. Either way, you’ll see many of the city’s main landmarks, like Story Bridge, New Farm and the South Bank. With your shades on and a breeze in your hair, you can marvel at the fact that this idyllic trip constitutes a daily commute for the lucky workers of Brisbane.
2. Climb Brisbane City Hall Tower
This grand sandstone building with its columned neoclassical façade was built between 1920 and 1930, and stands in stark contrast to the surrounding glass skyscrapers. It recently underwent an extensive AU$215-million restoration, and upon stepping inside it’s hard not to be bowled over by the elaborate archways, sheer marble staircase and fine mosaic work, all of which hark back to a bygone era of top-tier craftsmanship. The City Hall also doubles up as The Museum of Brisbane, where you can learn about the city’s history or visit one of the many touring exhibitions in the spacious gallery. Take the informative guided daily tour, or book a slot to climb the iconic 92-metre-high clock tower for eagle-eye views over the city.
3. Bargain hunt at one of the many street markets
Brisbane has more markets than you can shake a gourmet sausage at. Start your Saturday at the assorted stalls of the Davies Park Market in the West End, where you can hone your haggling skills, artisan coffee in hand, under the shade of giant fig trees. Then rustle up some one-of-a-kind finds at the aptly named Suitcase Rummage (first Sunday of every month) or the bi-annual Finders Keepers, which are full of the pre-loved and upcycled. At Black Bear Lodge (first Saturday of every month) you can sink some craft beer and listen to live music while hunting for rare vinyl. Or why not perfect your look with vintage garb and jewellery from the Kerbside (Sundays monthly) and Valley markets (weekends), or try browsing Brisbane’s latest creators and makers at the Collective (every weekend) and Young Designer Markets (first Sunday of every month) on the South Bank.
A visit to Brisbane isn’t complete without a chow down with the locals at the Eat Street Markets (Friday and Saturday evenings), where you can choose from 50 shipping containers’ worth of vendors serving up nearly every cuisine imaginable while listening to the live music by Hamilton Wharf. Finally, you can skewer your gourmet sausage at one of the city’s many farmers’ markets alongside fresh mud crabs and homemade cheeses.
4. Visit the koala sanctuary
A bit of a cliché perhaps, but it’s hard to say no to over 130 koalas at Australia’s oldest and largest koala sanctuary. Just look at them! Aaaaaw… At Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (which is a 30 to 45 minute bus journey from the centre of town) you can actually interact with some of Australia’s most famous animals by feeding the free roaming kangaroos and, of course, cuddling a koala. The enthusiastic staff put on educative presentations, such as sheep-shearing demonstrations, introductions to the Tasmanian devil and bird-of-prey flights. There are 95 native Australian species to see, including wombats, dingoes, bearded dragons, kookaburras and cassowaries, many of them in open, walk-through enclosures. Oh, and ‘Koala selfies’ are actively encouraged – the park even offers free phone-charging stations.
5. Enjoy the views from Mount Coot-tha
Six kilometres from the centre of town is 287-metre-high Mount Coot-tha, one of the city’s most popular tourist trips. At its base lies the 52-hectare Brisbane Botanic Gardens, which is home to an immaculate Japanese garden that was transferred from the Japanese government pavilion after the 1988 World Expo, held in Brisbane. The grounds also play host to the Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium, which is free to look around (although you have to pay for shows in the ‘Cosmic Skydome’). Whatever you do though, make sure you visit the Mount Coot-tha Lookout at the summit for some panoramic views over the city and beyond. You can walk to the top if you’re feeling brave, although if you you’d rather not end up a sweaty mess, you can also drive to the top.
6. LOL @ Brisbane Powerhouse
At the weekend, Brissies flock to the New Farm suburb and the gargantuan repurposed Tram Powerhouse, which since 2000 has been a comedy, performing and visual arts venue. It’s a striking combination of industrial grunge and edgy glass contours, with rough unfinished walls giving it a lived-in atmosphere. The progressive programming incorporates local and national talent and larger scale touring concerts, plays, shows and spoken word events, helping Brisbane rival Sydney and Melbourne’s performing arts scene. Check out the free Sunday comedy and music sessions, Livewired and Livespark or Turbine Jazz on a Saturday. The New Farm City Cat stop is just outside, making it easy to get to.
7. Immerse yourself in art and architecture at GOMA
Another architectural gem is Brisbane’s GOMA. The building, a stunning structure outside and in, was designed by local firm Architectus around the loose concept of a ‘community longhouse’. Join the local cognoscenti who come to connect with the global art scene, or simply soak up the vibe in the airy communal spaces. Next door, the Queensland Art Gallery showcases a collection of Australian paintings dating back to colonial settlement, providing an interesting juxtaposition between white and aboriginal artists and their radically different takes on the Australian landscape. Look out for Sydney Nolan’s idiosyncratic depictions of Ned Kelly, which fall somewhere between Francis Bacon and folk art, and the hypnotic stick paintings of Joy Jones Kngwarreye. Both galleries form part of the larger Brisbane Cultural Precinct, so if you’ve the cultural appetite, make a day of it and also pay a visit to the Queensland Museum, Performing Arts Centre, Queensland Theatre Company or State Library.
8. Attend a local festival
No matter when you arrive in Brisbane, there will be something exciting going on. In September the city hosts the Brisbane Festival, a world-class arts celebration, as well as the Brisbane Writers Festival and the Pride Festival, and in November the lights do down for the Brisbane Asia Pacific Film Festival. There are some superb indie music festivals like the Woodford Folk Festival in December and the St Jerome Laneways Festival in April, while the Future Music Festivals caters to all the bassheads and IDM nerds in March. The Hervey Bay Whale Festival in July offers fun interactive and educative events including a collective paddle to help raise funds for whale conservation efforts. And for something a bit different, try melon skiing at the annual Melon Festival in February (it’s like skiing… but with watermelons instead of skis) or join in a 10-day celebration of everything Elvis Presley at the Viva Surfers Paradise Festival in July.
9. Take a day trip to blissful Byron Bay
In the past few years, Byron Bay has seen the onset of gentrification that has gradually moved it away from its bohemian surfer roots, but it still retains an authentic soul and gentle free spirit – and it still harbours a dreamcatcher or two. At the pier you can see seashell necklace-wearing hippies playing drums, doing cartwheels, flying kites, practising yoga and generally finding their zen. And if you head up to the lighthouse, you can spend a lazy afternoon watching whales breach and the waves come in along the yawning coastline. But if you’re feeling a bit more active, head to The Rails, an open-air bar built in a disused railway station, to listen to some bitchin rhythm ‘n blues. A return drive from Brisbane takes just over three and a half hours, but it’s best plan for at least an overnight stay. Indeed, many of the now-permanent residents were at one stage ‘just passing through.’
10. Walk or cycle along Brisbane River
On a sunny day, set out from the South Bank, and bring your swimmers in preparation for a refreshing dip at the super-kitsch Streets Beach. You can take a turn on the ferris wheel or mosey underneath the bougainvillea canopy of the South Bank Arbour pedestrian walkway. Enjoy the rare and unusual botanic species over Goodwill Bridge at the Botanics and return for a chic poolside cocktail at the uber-trendy Bacchus bar. To catch one of the best views of Brisbane, zig zag along the New Farm boardwalk, pausing to peruse the art on the 2.4-kilometre public art trail heading towards the top of the cliffs at Kangaroo Point, where you can join the locals for a customary sunset barbecue while taking in the view of Story Bridge and the city’s neon lights.
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