Thanks to its reputation as the home of absinthe, riotous clubs and cheap (but very good) beer, Prague has earned a name as a party town and stag do destination.
But first and foremost it’s a medieval city of fairytale castles and narrow streets that has miraculously survived intact into the 21st century. And the city’s more recent history, from its central role in the overthrow of Communism to the way it shaped the books of Franz Kafka, proves just as fascinating as its ancient roots. Oh, and it’s also home to mechanical urinating statues and levitating babies. Read on and all will be revealed as we guide you through the top things to do in this magical city.
1. Drink absinthe at Café Slavia
Absinthe was invented in Switzerland and became synonymous with free-thinking Parisian artists in the giddy days of the Belle Époque (think Moulin Rouge). But it also became indelibly associated with bohemians and dissidents living in Prague, and Café Slavia was their preferred haunt – indeed, it was a drinking hole for Franz Kafka and the author and philosopher Václav Havel (later to become the first democratically elected Czechoslovakian president). The café occupies a prime location opposite the National Theatre and has a wonderfully restored art deco interior – if you can grab a window seat, it’s the perfect place to spend an afternoon people-watching while nursing a drink.
And speaking of drinks, you’ll be inspired by Viktor Oliva’s wonderfully ghoulish painting The Absinthe Drinker, which hangs on the wall, to try a little of this tipple yourself – usually preceded in these parts by a mixing ceremony that involves stirring flaming sugar into your drink and then quenching it with water. Absinthe purists snort that this ‘fire ritual’ was only invented in the 1990s as a way to disguise the taste of inferior booze, and they maintain that French absinthe is far superior. But come on, what’s not to enjoy about setting fire to things and then drinking them? Still, if you want to get serious about your absinthe, head to the Absintherie, which sells 60 varieties of absinthe and even has a museum dedicated to the green stuff.
2. Go to the Museum of Communism
This quirky little exhibition, just off Wenceslas Square, harbours something that many museums lack: a sense of humour. In the gift shop you’ll find postcards emblazoned with classic images of Communist workers underneath the slogan: ‘Sometimes there was no toilet paper in the shops. Luckily there was not much food either’. My favourite is a picture of Lenin with the words: ‘Museum of Communism. We’re above McDonalds, across from Benetton. Viva la imperialism!’
But despite the sometimes light-hearted tone, the museum tells a bleak, gripping tale of repression and hardship in which informants were everywhere and the secret police were feared by the masses, that is, until Czech Communism came crashing down in the remarkably bloodless Velvet Revolution of 1989. Arguably the most interesting exhibit concerns the fate of an enormous statue of Stalin that was erected in Letná Park in 1955, two years after the dictator’s death. At the time it was unveiled, attitudes towards Stalin were already cooling, and the 15-metre-high statue quickly became an embarrassment to the Czechoslovakian government. So in 1962, just seven years after it was built, the Stalin statue was blown up with 800 kilograms of dynamite. A giant metronome now occupies its plinth – apparently it’s a reminder of the long struggles of Prague’s past and the passage of time.
3. Wonder at the astronomical clock
Tourists flock to coo at the free hourly show provided by this stupendous timepiece, which was built in 1410 and is the oldest functional astronomical clock in the world. Not only does it tell you the time, it also tells you the position of the moon and the sun, the day of the year and the current zodiac sign. As the bell chimes, mechanical marionettes of the 12 apostles file past, but more interesting are the four figures that represent the dire societal concerns of medieval Prague: Vanity, Greed, Death and Pagan Invasion (which is embodied by a Turk). You can also climb up the clock tower for some fantastic views of the 12th-century Old Town Square, which looks like something out of a story book. In particular, Tyn Church, with its multiple spires and turrets, gives the feeling that a prince on horseback could gallop out of it at any second.
4. Skip across Charles Bridge
Actually, skipping isn’t strictly necessary, it’s fine to walk. Although even that may prove challenging at peak times, such is the popularity of this river crossing with visitors. To make things worse, hawkers and entertainers regularly add to the bustle, so often it’s a fight to get to the other side. But despite the crowds, it’s well worth making the trip to this unique bridge, which dates back to 1390 and features beautiful Gothic towers as well as a parade of statues of saints that were added in the late 17th/early 18th century (although the current ones are mostly replicas – the originals are housed in a museum).
The most famous statue is that of St John of Nepomuk, which can be found in the middle of the north side of the bridge, and is easy to spot thanks to the five stars around his head. Apparently he displeased the king (there are various stories as to how) and as a result he was thrown off the bridge to his death in 1393, just three years after the bridge opened. Clearly the king wasted no time in exploring alternative uses for his brand new river crossing. On the parapet near the statue there are five stars in the position where St John was cast from the bridge (five stars were said to appear in the water where he landed), and if you touch your left hand to the stars, it’s said to grant a wish. But if you want to ensure a clear run at the wish-granting stars, plan your trip for sunrise, when you’ll be presented with an empty bridge and an unparalleled view of the fairytale city of castles and churches beyond.
5. Parade around Prague Castle (but walk respectfully through the cathedral)
As you walk up the hill from Charles Bridge, Prague Castle dominates the view before you. It dates from the 9th century, and at 570 metres long is the largest surviving ancient castle in the world. Over the years, various monarchs have remodelled and added to the castle, so it now represents a smorgasbord of almost every architectural style of the past 1,000 years, from Gothic to Romanesque to Baroque.
As you step through the castle gates, the first building you come across is St Vitus Cathedral, which does a good job of encapsulating the varying styles in one building: it was started in 1344, but work ceased in the 15th century due to war and lack of funds, and didn’t begin again until the 19th century. It was finally finished in 1929, some 600 years after it was started: a record that the builders of my parents’ extension are attempting to top. As you circle around the building, it’s fun to speculate on which bits were built at what time (some parts were added as recently as 1953). Inside, make sure to check out the wonderful Art Nouveau stained glass windows.
Further inside the castle, the changing of the guard takes place in the first courtyard daily at midday, which is sure to delight fans of marching with guns. But what sets this military display apart is the military band hanging out of the windows above the parade and the natty sky blue uniforms of the soldiers, which were designed by Theodor Pištěk – who also did the costumes for the film Amadeus.
As befitting its size, there are plenty of other distractions to be found in Prague Castle, easily enough to keep you occupied for a whole day or even two – take a look at the castle’s website for a full list of attractions and prices. One highlight is Golden Lane, a picturesque street where Franz Kafka rented a house for two years. And speaking of Kafka…
6. Go in search of Kafka
The author of The Metamorphosis, The Trial and The Castle was born near the Old Town Square in 1883; his birthplace on Náměstí Franze Kafky is marked with a plaque. He moved around a lot during his relatively brief life, and following the trail of his various residences and workplaces is a good way to see the city, as it takes in many famous landmarks such as Golden Lane, Wenceslas Square and the Jewish Cemetary. Various dedicated Kafka walking tours are available, or you can attempt to guide yourself (this list of landmarks from the Prague Post is a good place to start).
The Franz Kafka Museum, which opened in 2005, is an admirable attempt to capture the spirit of the author’s work. It features a permanent exhibition called The City of K, which includes unsettling representations of tropes from his work, including mirrors, labyrinths, dark drawings and even a torture machine. And just outside the entrance is an unforgettable statue by Prague artist David Cerny, depicting two men urinating onto a map of the Czech Republic. They move too, and if you text a word to the phone number next to the stature, the micturating duo will spell it out for you by swivelling their bronze penises. If you want to see more of Cerny’s outlandlish work, which includes freakish, gravity-defying babies, a foetus in a drainpipe and Saddam Hussein in formaldehyde, click here for a guide on where to hunt it down.
7. Take a day trip to the fairy-tale town of Český Krumlov
Prague is often described as being like a storybook, but Český Krumlov, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s about three hours away by bus, takes the fairytale feel to another level. In fact, it was the filming location for the 1996 movie The Adventures of Pinocchio (although it was also the location for the rather less fairytale-like film Hostel). The clusters of brightly coloured houses surrounding an enormous castle with a bright pink tower make this 13th-century town feel like a sort of real-life Disneyland.
The castle is certainly worth a look for its mix of architectural styles, and the other dominant feature of the skyline, St Vitus Church, has a charming interior. But the main appeal of this town is its narrow streets, which are ripe for a day of aimless exploring.
The down side is that it can get incredibly busy during August, so try to avoid that month if you can. June is an excellent time to visit thanks to the Five-Petalled Rose Festival, when the citizens get dressed in medieval garb and host jousting tournaments, fencing duels and craft fairs.
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